 |
 |
Organic Gardening
Organic gardening runs in much the same way as farms but on a much smaller scale. The soil plays a very important part in the success of our gardens and here are some suggestions as to improving your garden conditions:
Analyzing the soil. If your garden soil looks and feels either heavy and clayey or light and sandy, the texture needs to be improved. To do this you will need to add a kind of moss product called peat moss. The peat moss will loosen heavy and clayey soils and allow air to reach the plants root system. The peat moss will also allow sandy and light soil to retain water.
Green plants need certain chemical elements to grow. Some of these elements come from the air and water, but other elements, especially nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, must come from the soil. The plant will absorb these elements from fertile soil through there roots. There are commercial testing kits available for this but a good way of testing your soil is to look and see if there is healthy grass or other plants growing on the garden site. If your soil lacks important elements an organic fertilizer will be necessary.
Mulching:
Many gardeners spread a covering called a mulch over the soil among the plants. A mulch can help stop the growth of weeds by depriving them of air and sunlight. It also helps the soil retain moisture. A mulch can be made of a variety of organic materials such as; chopped leaves, compost grass clippings, nutshells, peat moss, pine needles, straw or wood chips. Once you spread the mulch water and fertilize as you require but keep in mind that with the mulch present you do not have to water as often. The odd weed will grow through, just simply remove by hand.
Nitrogen Cycle:
is the circulation of nitrogen among the atmosphere, the soil and water, and the plants and animals of the earth. All living things require nitrogen, but most organisms cannot use the nitrogen gas that makes up about 75% of our atmosphere. They require the nitrogen that contains other organic compounds. The supply of this fixed nitrogen is limited so nature has developed its own recycling methods.
One of these methods in the nitrogen cycle involves the link to soil and living things. After plants and animals die, they decompose leaving microorganisms that produce ammonia from the nitrogen compounds found in dead organic matter and in the excrements of animals. Plants absorb some of this ammonia while the rest is turned into nitrates. Animals get nitrogen by eating plants or by feeding on the animals that eat plants.
Soil
Soil is a natural resource covering most of the earth's land surface. Most living things on earth rely on soil directly or
indirectly as a source of food. Plants that grow in the soil obtain nutrients and the animals get there nutrients from
plants that they eat or be eating other animals that eat the plants. Microbes found in the soil make dead plants or animals
decay thus putting the nutrients back into the soil.
Soil contains organic particles and minerals, plant and animal matter, air and water.
The contents of soil, it's color and composition change constantly depending on the geographical area from which you
live. This composition determines the type of plants that grow well in that environment or how much the soil needs
be helped along to grow certain crops. Soil forms slowly and is destroyed quickly.
Composition of soil:
The mineral and organic particles in soil are called soil particles. Water and air occupy the spaces between the particles.
Plants and animals live in these pore spaces as well plant roots grow through these spaces.
Sands, silts and clays are mineral particles that supply nutrients to green plants, and make up most of the mineral
of soils. Trace amounts of many minerals add nutrients to the soil including calcium, phosphorus and potassium.
Many organisms such as microbes live in the soil and such animals as worms, insects and small mammals. these
help in the decomposition of dead plant and animal matter as it also helps the soil to come together and form clumps
the soil.
Other decaying material forms organic soil particles called humus. Most humus contains large amounts of water and
black or dark brown in color. 6 to 12% of the volume in this type of soil is organic, however these gives the soil what needs to support plant life. In some cases the percentage can be as high as 20.
How soil is formed:
Soil begins when the deteriation of rocks and similar materials also called parent materials are broken down over time. Soils are are constantly being formed and destroyed from natural elements and the effects of man. The formation of soil is dependent upon many factors (1) the kinds of parent material. (2) climate. (3) land surface features (4) plants animals. (5) time.
Soil Conservation:
With our growing population and the need for more room, recreational areas, farmland, grazing lands and forest lands
good choices need to made in ensuring the wise use of these soils.
Wise use of farmlands involves maintaining the nutrients and organic matter in cultivated soils. Farmers are adding
organic matter and plowing into the soils, rotating crops to to replace nutrients, using organic fertilizers and planting their fields as to control erosion.
Grazing lands that are over-grazed suffer from erosion and allow the elements to break down the soil depleting its
nutrient values. Ranchers conserve these grazing lands by limiting the time there herds spend in one area.
Forest lands also must be protected from erosion. unusable branches and other parts of trees are being left behind on
the forest floor to add organic material to the soil. Large clumps of trees are planted so the root systems protect the soil from the elements.
Soil begins to form |
Simple organisms |
Layers called horizons |
A well developed soil |
Composting
Composting is an ecological process returning plant and animal matter back into soil. Materials are piled up in a location where it will sit anywhere from 2 months to a year depending upon your composting method. When added to the
garden, it gives the soil added nutrients and allows the soil to retain moisture easier.
Composting should be an aerobic decomposition process (allowing air throughout the pile). A well ventilated compost
pile decays faster and helps stop offensive odors. While it is wise to keep your compost pile open, thus allowing the air to flow thru naturally, special attention must be kept on the amount of moisture entering the pile. In areas were their is alot of rainfall, keep your compost covered and sprinkle lightly everyday simply to keep the pile moist. A pile that gets to much moisture or gets soggy will rot and cause odors.
Composting is also an economical way of getting rid of household waste. Some common materials used in the compost
are autumn leaves, annual and vegetable plants, grass clippings, animal manures and kitchen waste.
Kitchen waste comes in the forms of fruit skins, lettuce trimmings, egg shells, coffee, garden vegetable tops, onion and potato peelings.
Tip 1. Never use meat scraps or fat drippings (such as bacon) this will attract flies and vermin
In the later part of fall, an abundant amount of materials are available for the compost pile. With this abundance this is usually the best time to start your compost pile. If layered properly and the moisture watched your compost should be ready to mix into your garden by the late spring.
Most professionals in the gardening field recommend the compost pile to be made in this proportion, 2 parts of rich
Carbon materials to one part of rich Nitrogen materials. Rich Carbon materials would include: straw spoiled hay
autumn leaves wood chips sawdust corn stalks pine needles and shredded newspaper. Rich Nitrogen materials
would include: annual and vegetable plants grass clippings Kitchen waste materials weeds manures (fresh or dried) and soil.
The composter - There is no set size for a compost pile. make it the size that best accommodates your property.
Materials used to make the compost pile vary as much as the ingredients put into it. The most common backyard
composter is made of a hard plastic and is sold commercially. Generally more simplistic measures are usedwhere space
accommodates. Wood, brick, chicken wire are common materials also used. The composter should be made on level
ground and perhaps near a water supply (this suggestion is for larger properties) so during dry spells it isnt difficult to
water.
Tip 2. Avoid using t o much of one ingredient , such as leaves or lawn clippings
Starting your compost pile. -Put a few inches of twigs on the bottom to help with aeration. Once the bottom layer is
complete put a layer of rich Carbon material and a layer of rich Nitrogen material keeping in mind to put 2 parts of
carbon to 1 part of nitrogen materials. Finish layering by adding a 1 layer of soil.
Using a shovel, turn your pile every couple of weeks, making sure the material in the center makes its way to the
outside of your pile and the outside makes its way top the center. As you are doing this, dont be alarmed if steam starts to float from your compost, this is the natural process of your materials heating up or composting. within the first three to four weeks you will notice earthworms as you turn your pile, they help in the breaking down of materials. It is very important to cover your compost. Although your compost needs to be kept moist heavy rains or sprinklers will drench your compost slowing the decomposition process. When your pile takes on the look of soil or black and crumbly in appearance you are ready to add this to your garden and start the process over again.
When using your compost in the garden, an added benefit comes in the way of earthworms. Earthworms help to aerate
your soil and to make the soil more granular.
Tip 3. Be careful not t o leave your compost for too long.
An abundance of earthworms will eat your compost
down to nothing more than worm castings.
Good Bug Bad Bug
Controlling Insects Organically
It is a known fact the insects affect the growing process as well as the look of our fruits and vegetables. How to manage
these insects has typically been to go to your local garden center and put some commercial chemical pesticide on your
plants killing the pests and preserving your plants. One Problem, the use of these chemicals deplete the nutritional
makeup of your soil as with the plants growing in it. Organic growing is simply the process of growing your plants as
nature intended it.
Good Bugs
Ground Beetle - Black or iridescent in color, this beetle doesnt like to be discovered. It will move quickly and
generally hides under rocks or stones. It has strong legs and jaws and mainly eats other insects such as caterpillars and snails.
Lacewing/Aphid Lion - With light green wings and shiny red-gold eyes it is hard to believe the eggs that are laid on
individual stalks hatch into ugly, strong jawed and as the name refers, Aphid Lions. These flat tapered insects prey on aphids, mites, thrips and mealybugs.
Lady Bugs - The most common and loved of the good bugs feed on aphids while in their ladybeetle stage. While in
their larval stage they are known to eat potato beetles, rootworms, weevils and aphids.
They are attracted to warm and open gardens.
Praying Mantis - A common and favorite insect of children these insects pray on aphids while they are small and as
they grow larger begin to feed on almost any insect.
Bad Bugs
Aphids - (plant lice) primarily suck the juice out of leaves leaving them malformed. They also excrete a sticky substance attracting ants. Controlled by lady bugs and aphid lions.
Cabbage Looper - (measuring worm) As it crawls forward it doubles up in a loop. Feeds primarily on all members of
the cabbage family.
Colorado Potato Beetle - A problem most of the time, this yellow and black striped beetle feeds on potato,
eggplant, pepper, and tomato seedlings. Controlled by hand picking or destroy leaves that contain eggs.
Corn Earworm and European Corn Borer - The earworm (earwig) nibbles on silks, preventing pollination or eats
its way into the ears and feeds on the kernels. Controlled by: choosing a resistant corn variety having tight husks or
mineral oil on the silks after the corn has been pollinated. The larger borer feeds inside the stalks and at the base of ears. these are controlled by chipping stalks in the fall to prevent borers from overwintering.
Cucumber Beetle - The western species are spotted. They feed on young cucumbers, beans, melons, squash and
peas. Controlled by starting the seedlings indoors.
Cut Worms - Grey, brown or black caterpillars of the night flying moth. They stay within the soil and eat young
transplants at ground level. Controlled by using a barrier like a milk carton around the seedling at least 1 inch under ground and 2 to 3 inches above ground.
Slugs - Feeds on suculant plants and generally feeds at night. The slug leaves a mucous trail where ever it travels.
Numbers seem to greater in damper climates. Controlled by using ashes or sand around plants.
Squash Bug (Stink Bug) - omits an odor when crushed. It feeds on pumpkins, squash, melons. generally sucks the
moisture out of the leaves and causing the plants to wilt. Controlled by handpicking and removing leaves with red egg
clusters.
Tomato Hornworm - A large but rather beautiful green worm, that eats tomato foliage and sometimes the leaves
eggplants and peppers. Controlled by handpicking.
White flies - A very small white fly which populates in great numbers. When the leaves are touched they will fly
clouds. Controlled by using high quality transplant stock.
|
|
|
